Laminate Flooring Installation

1. Carefully remove and set aside the baseboards.
2. If you’re installing laminate over a concrete floor, you’ll need a vapor barrier to prevent moisture from damaging the underside of your new flooring. Choose a foam underlayment that’s also labeled as a vapor barrier, or put regular foam underlayment on top of six-mill plastic sheeting. Plastic sheeting is sold in 10-foot widths and rolls of 25-foot increments. Roll out the plastic sheeting and butt the edges together, duct-taping all the seams.
3. Measure the length of the room, then divide by the length (usually 36 inches) of the boards. If the result is more than eight inches, start laying boards. If it’s less than eight inches, trim the corresponding length from the left-hand (starting) edge of the first board to avoid a too-short board at the end. The first and last boards in each row should be at least eight inches for visual appeal.
4. Place spacers between the laminate planks and adjacent walls for the manufacturer’s recommended expansion gap.
5. For doorjamb, draw a line at the height of the new flooring and undercut the jamb with a door jamb saw to allow the new underlayment and flooring to slide underneath.
6. Begin placing the first few rows of laminate boards about 2′ away from the starting wall. Allow  a 1/4″ to 1/2″ expansion space between the walls and the flooring around the perimeter of the room for expansion and contraction from humidity. Work from left to right.
7. Next, begin by inserting your second row by the tongue and groove. Make sure to stagger the boards so the end seams don’t line up. You may need to insert at a slight angle. Once the piece is in place use a tapping block and hammer to pop the laminate board into place so the fit snugly. Repeat these steps until you get to the last row.
8. Prepare to lay the last row of flooring, measuring carefully. You’ll likely need to trim the board to fit, as the remaining space may be narrower than the width of an uncut board. Use a pull bar and hammer to lock the last row in place.
9. Install transition strips, remove wall spacers, cut excess underlayment, install baseboards and shoe moulding.
10. Allow the floor to settle for at least 24 hours, especially if you’ve used glue.